Sri Lanka in 7 days: Sigiriya, Kandy, Ella and the south coast
By Ganesh ·
A 7-day Sri Lanka itinerary from India: two nights near Sigiriya, one in Kandy, the hill-country train to Ella for two nights, and a night on the south coast near Galle. ETA, trains and rough costs in rupees.
A week in Sri Lanka works best as a loop from Colombo: two nights near Sigiriya, one in Kandy, the scenic train up to Ella for two nights, then down to the south coast for a night near Galle before driving back to the airport. It's a lot of road time, so most people hire a car with a driver for the whole week. It costs less than you'd expect and saves a lot of hassle.
The route
| Day | Where | Night |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Airport to Sigiriya (about 4 hours) | Sigiriya |
| 2 | Sigiriya rock, Dambulla cave temple | Sigiriya |
| 3 | Drive to Kandy, Temple of the Tooth | Kandy |
| 4 | Train from Kandy to Ella | Ella |
| 5 | Little Adam's Peak, Nine Arches Bridge | Ella |
| 6 | Drive to the south coast, Galle Fort | Galle or Mirissa |
| 7 | Back to the airport (about 2.5 hours on the expressway) | Home |
Day by day
Day 1, to Sigiriya
Most flights from India land at Colombo's Bandaranaike airport in the morning. Drive straight to the Cultural Triangle and stay near Sigiriya or Habarana. On the way, stop for lunch at a roadside rice-and-curry place. It's usually the best meal of the day.
Day 2, Sigiriya and Dambulla
Climb Sigiriya at opening time (7 am). By 10 the steps are hot and the queues are long. The climb takes about an hour up, past the frescoes and the lion's paws. If the ticket price puts you off, Pidurangala rock next door has the best view of Sigiriya itself and costs a fraction. In the afternoon, see the painted caves at Dambulla. A jeep safari in Minneriya or Kaudulla to see elephants is a good evening option from July to October.
Day 3, Kandy
The drive is about 2.5 hours. Stop at a spice garden if you like, but skip the hard sell at the end. In Kandy, visit the Temple of the Tooth for the evening ceremony and walk around the lake. The Peradeniya botanical gardens are worth an hour if you arrive early.
Day 4, the train to Ella
This is the ride everyone talks about: about seven hours through tea estates and cloud forest. Reserved seats in the observation and second-class carriages sell out fast, so book on Sri Lanka Railways' online booking as soon as it opens for your date. If you miss out, unreserved second class is fine but crowded. Your driver takes your bags by road and meets you in Ella.
Day 5, Ella
Walk up Little Adam's Peak early (45 minutes each way, easy). Then the Nine Arches Bridge. Locals know when the trains cross, so ask at your guesthouse. Ella Rock is a longer, harder hike for those with the legs for it.
Day 6, the south coast
It's about four hours down to the coast, past Rawana Falls. Base yourself in Galle, Unawatuna or Mirissa. Walk the ramparts of Galle Fort at sunset. From November to April, Mirissa runs whale-watching boats early in the morning.
Day 7, back to Colombo airport
The Southern Expressway gets you to the airport in about 2.5 hours. If your flight is late, spend a few hours in Colombo on the way.
Visa (ETA)
Indian passport holders need an Electronic Travel Authorisation. Sri Lanka has sometimes made it free for Indians and sometimes charged a fee, so check the current rule on the official ETA website and apply there, not through look-alike agent sites.
Rough cost per person
| Item | Budget (₹, approx.) | Mid-range (₹, approx.) |
|---|---|---|
| Return flights from India | 15,000-25,000 | 25,000-35,000 |
| Car and driver, 6 days (split by two) | 12,000-16,000 | 15,000-20,000 |
| Stays, sharing a room, 6 nights | 9,000-15,000 | 20,000-40,000 |
| Entry tickets (Sigiriya, Dambulla, Kandy, safari) | 6,000-9,000 | 8,000-12,000 |
| Train, food, tips | 6,000-9,000 | 9,000-14,000 |
| ETA and insurance | 500-3,500 | 1,000-4,000 |
| Total | 48,500-77,500 | 78,000-1,25,000 |
Ask whether foreign entry prices have a SAARC rate. Some sites charge Indians less than other foreigners if you show your passport.
When to go
December to March is the best time for this route: dry in the hill country and calm on the south and west coasts. From May to September the south-west monsoon brings rain to the coast, though the Cultural Triangle stays mostly dry. The east coast (Trincomalee, Arugam Bay) is the better beach in those months.
Questions people ask
Can I do Sri Lanka on public transport?
Yes, with buses and trains, but it's slow and you'll need eight or nine days for the same loop.
Is Nuwara Eliya worth adding?
It's a cool tea-country town on the same railway. Get off there for a night if you have an extra day, and do the second half of the train ride the next morning.
Can I pay in rupees?
No. Use Sri Lankan rupees, or a card in tourist areas. Carry some US dollars or exchange money at the airport.
Photo: Lighthouse Galle, Sri Lanka by Samal Nadeeshan, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)
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